Erosion and accretion of a meso-macro-tidal beach profile—A case from the Yintan Beach of Beihai
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摘要:
揭示中、强潮砂质海滩在波浪和潮汐作用下的剖面冲淤变化过程是理解海岸演变及沿海防护工程设计与旅游资源规划的核心内容。以北部湾北海银滩为例，基于GIS-RTK获取区域2014年7月—2018年2月逐月剖面高程实测数据，结合水文资料分析银滩剖面在外在驱动作用下的变化特征及冲淤机制。结果表明：① 银滩内滨区域处于净侵蚀状态，低潮带及其以浅区破波带以弱淤积为主，冲流带展现持续、恒定净淤积特征。② 一年中有263天波浪可引起银滩−3.41 m水深以浅的泥沙频繁扰动，由此造成内滨剖面快速变化，波高0.3～0.5 m的波浪引起的泥沙扰动水深控制冲流带、破波带和低潮带的淤积过程。③ 潮位波动导致波浪作用下海床泥沙活动的范围出现差异，由此引起海滩由陆向海出现“强淤积-弱淤积-弱侵蚀”特征。④ 造成区域较大增水的台风可大幅度提高各级别波浪扰动范围，对银滩整体剖面造成侵蚀。
Abstract:Changes in the erosional and depositional regime on a meso-macro tidal coast, under the actions of wave and tide, are significant for understanding coastal evolution, and making coastal engineering design and tourism resource development plan. In this study, the variation in beach profiles and associated driven factors are investigated, based on the hydrological data and measured monthly profile elevations, from July 2014 to February 2018 on the Yintan beach of Beibu Gulf. The results can be summarized as follows: (1) The inshore area of the Yintan Beach remained in a state of net erosion, while the low-tide zone and its shallow surf zone were in weak siltation, and the swash zone in continuous and constant net siltation. (2) In a year there are 263 days, during which wave can make the sediment frequently disturbed in the shallow area less than 3.41 m, which can induce rapid changes in inshore zone, and the eddy water depths induced by the wave 0.3 m to 0.5 m in height control the depositional processes in the swash, surf and low-tide zones. (3) Fluctuation of tide level may cause the spatial differences in sediment movement on seabed and results in the distribution pattern of "strong siltation - weak siltation - weak erosion" from land to sea. (4) The typhoon may greatly cause storm surge elevation, increase the wave disturbance range, and bring about strong erosion of the whole beach.
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表 1 北海银滩7、8月各级波浪作用的泥沙活动临界水深
Table 1. Critical water depth of sediment activity at various levels of waves in July and August in the Yintan Beach
H/m 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 T/s 1.759 2.223 2.345 2.587 2.652 2.957 3.043 3.130 P/% 30.128 10.256 19.231 12.821 3.846 1.282 1.923 0.641 h1 /m 0.420 0.656 0.838 1.067 1.246 1.534 1.738 1.946 h2 /m 0.244 0.381 0.491 0.627 0.740 0.909 1.038 1.170 h3 /m 1.080 2.045 2.563 3.411 3.847 5.064 5.632 6.210 H/m 1.1 1.2 1.3 2.5 3 3.2 3.4 3.8 T/s 3.130 3.217 3.348 4.261 4.522 4.522 4.696 5.478 P/% 1.923 2.564 1.282 0.641 0.641 0.641 0.641 1.282 h1 /m 2.104 2.314 2.558 5.204 6.213 6.485 6.971 8.405 h2/m 1.277 1.412 1.566 3.329 4.035 4.253 4.579 5.443 h3/m 6.439 7.022 7.818 15.288 17.898 18.21 19.76 26.12 
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表 2 北海银滩高频波浪对研究剖面单宽体积影响
Table 2. The influence of high-frequency waves on the single-width volume of the study profile on the Yintan Beach
m3 波高/m 2014年 2015年 2016年 2017年 H=0.3 24.48 27.97 29.41 28.47 H=0.4 73.57 78.36 79.70 79.17 H=0.5 114.20 116.92 121.40 119.42 H=0.6 193.94 193.91 196.39 194.30
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