Seasonal evolution of the typical sandy coast of southeastern Shandong Peninsula and controlling factors—Take the 10 000-meter beach in Haiyang as an example
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摘要:
根据2018年秋季至2019年夏季4个季节的海滩剖面形态测量和表层沉积物粒度分析结果，研究了海阳万米海滩地形和表层沉积物粒度季节变化特征，探讨了控制研究区砂质岸滩季节性演化的因素。结果表明：连理岛-东村河口以西海滩剖面形态在强动力和弱动力条件下分别呈“上蚀下淤”和“下冲上塑”特征，夏季台风造成的滩肩侵蚀量大于冬季风，在滩面形成的沙坝数量多、规模小且离岸距离较之冬季风更远。连理岛-东村河口处海滩剖面形态整体呈淤积状态，且在强动力条件下的淤积量大于弱动力条件。连理岛-东村河口以东海滩剖面形态的季节性变化幅度小于以西海滩，同时滩肩顶剖面形态在夏季出现明显下凹特征。表层沉积物粒度特征变化同样呈现东西差异的特点，秋季到冬季，西侧海滩表层沉积物粒度变粗、分选变差，而东侧海滩变细、分选基本不变；冬季到春季，海滩表层沉积物粒度总体变细、分选较好；夏季变化趋势与冬季相似，但变化幅度有所差异。人工岛和港口等海岸工程建设是导致海滩剖面形态和表层沉积物粒度东西差异的主导因素；波浪和台风事件等是控制砂质岸滩季节性演化的主要动力因素；潮汐作用、旅游开发等人类活动也对岸滩演化造成一定影响。
Abstract:Beach profile morphological survey and surface sediment grain size analysis along the Haiyang coast were carried out by the authors for the four seasons from the autumn of 2018 to the summer of 2019, and the seasonal variation of beach topography and surface sediment grain size as well as the factors controlling the seasonal evolution of sandy coast in the surveyed area were studied. The results show that the beach profile to the west of Lianlidao-Dongcun estuary is characterized by patterns of "upper erosion and lower siltation" under strong dynamic and "lower scoured and upper molded" under weak dynamic conditions, respectively, and the erosion of beach berm caused by the summer typhoon is much stronger than that caused by the winter monsoon. A large number of sand bars of small scale were formed on the beach surface, and extended offshore farther than those formed under the winter monsoon. The beach profile at the Lianlidao-Dongcun estuary is silted in general, and the siltation under strong dynamic is larger than that under weak dynamic condition. The seasonal variation of the beach profile to the east of the Lianlidao-Dongcun estuary is smaller than that to the west, and the shape of the beach berm top shows obvious a concave feature in the summer. The variation of grain size of surface sediments also shows the difference between the east and the west. From autumn to winter, the grain size of surface sediments on the west side becomes coarser and the sorting becomes worse. On the east side, however, the sediments become finer with almost unchanged sorting. From winter to spring, the grain size of beach surface sediments becomes finer in grain size and better in sorting. and the variation trend in summer is similar to that in winter, although the variation range is different. Coastal engineering construction such as artificial islands and ports are the main factors leading to the difference of beach profile shape and grain size of surface sediments from east to west, and waves and typhoon events are the main dynamic factors that control the seasonal evolution of sandy beaches. Tidal action, tourism development and other human activities will also have a certain impact onto beach evolution.
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Key words:
- beach /
- seasonal evolution /
- controlling factors /
- Shandong Peninsula
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表 1 研究区海滩滩肩表层沉积物取样起止点坐标
Table 1. Coordinates of starting and ending points for surface sediments sampling on beach berms in the study area
起点 终点 纬度 经度 纬度 经度 T1 36°41′39.33″N 121°12′55.47″E 36°41′36.05″N 121°12′56.07″E T2 36°41′16.52″N 121°11′38.61″E 36°41′14.79″N 121°11′39.75″E T3 36°40′47.13″N 121°10′41.74″E 36°40′45.61″N 121°10′42.83″E T4 36°40′16.59″N 121°09′23.52″E 36°40′15.24″N 121°09′24.40″E T5 36°39′09.94″N 121°07′24.05″E 36°39′06.58″N 121°07′26.55″E T6 36°38′14.81″N 121°06′18.86″E 36°38′10.93″N 121°06′22.96″E 
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表 2 研究区海滩滩肩表层沉积物分选等级季节变化
Table 2. Seasonal variation of sorting coefficient of berm surface sediments in the study area
T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 秋 较好 好 中等 较好 较好 中等 冬 中等 中等 中等 较好 较好 较好 春 较好 较好 较好 较好 较好 较差 夏 较差 中等 较差 较好 好 较好
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表 3 研究区海滩滩面表层沉积物分选系数季节变化
Table 3. Seasonal variation of sorting coefficient of beach surface sediments in the study area
T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 秋 较好 中等 较差 较好 中等 中等 冬 较差 中等 较差 中等 较好 好 春 较好 较差 中等 较好 较好 较好 夏 好 较好 好 好 较好 较好
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表 4 2018年秋季至2019年冬季研究区波浪和风场变化
Table 4. Wave and wind field changes in the study area from autumn 2018 to winter 2019
2018年秋季 2018年冬季 2019年春季 2019年夏季 有效波高/m 0.72 0.93 0.75 0.74 平均波向 NNE NW SSW SSE 平均风速/(m/s) 1.57 2.82 1.30 2.48 风向 NNW NNW SSW S
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表 5 研究区2018年秋季至2019年冬季浪潮作用指数计算结果
Table 5. Calculation results of wave action index from autumn 2018 to winter 2019 in the study area
2018年秋季 2018年冬季 2019年春季 2019年夏季 H1/10/m 0.92 1.19 0.96 0.95 MHW/m 1.18 0.92 1.07 1.32 MLW/m –1.08 –1.31 –1.16 –0.91 
/m2.27 2.21 2.21 2.18 K 1.02 1.34 1.07 1.07
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