Seasonal evolution of the typical sandy coast of southeastern Shandong Peninsula and controlling factors—Take the 10 000-meter beach in Haiyang as an example
-
摘要:
根据2018年秋季至2019年夏季4个季节的海滩剖面形态测量和表层沉积物粒度分析结果，研究了海阳万米海滩地形和表层沉积物粒度季节变化特征，探讨了控制研究区砂质岸滩季节性演化的因素。结果表明：连理岛-东村河口以西海滩剖面形态在强动力和弱动力条件下分别呈“上蚀下淤”和“下冲上塑”特征，夏季台风造成的滩肩侵蚀量大于冬季风，在滩面形成的沙坝数量多、规模小且离岸距离较之冬季风更远。连理岛-东村河口处海滩剖面形态整体呈淤积状态，且在强动力条件下的淤积量大于弱动力条件。连理岛-东村河口以东海滩剖面形态的季节性变化幅度小于以西海滩，同时滩肩顶剖面形态在夏季出现明显下凹特征。表层沉积物粒度特征变化同样呈现东西差异的特点，秋季到冬季，西侧海滩表层沉积物粒度变粗、分选变差，而东侧海滩变细、分选基本不变；冬季到春季，海滩表层沉积物粒度总体变细、分选较好；夏季变化趋势与冬季相似，但变化幅度有所差异。人工岛和港口等海岸工程建设是导致海滩剖面形态和表层沉积物粒度东西差异的主导因素；波浪和台风事件等是控制砂质岸滩季节性演化的主要动力因素；潮汐作用、旅游开发等人类活动也对岸滩演化造成一定影响。
Abstract:Beach profile morphological survey and surface sediment grain size analysis along the Haiyang coast were carried out by the authors for the four seasons from the autumn of 2018 to the summer of 2019, and the seasonal variation of beach topography and surface sediment grain size as well as the factors controlling the seasonal evolution of sandy coast in the surveyed area were studied. The results show that the beach profile to the west of Lianlidao-Dongcun estuary is characterized by patterns of "upper erosion and lower siltation" under strong dynamic and "lower scoured and upper molded" under weak dynamic conditions, respectively, and the erosion of beach berm caused by the summer typhoon is much stronger than that caused by the winter monsoon. A large number of sand bars of small scale were formed on the beach surface, and extended offshore farther than those formed under the winter monsoon. The beach profile at the Lianlidao-Dongcun estuary is silted in general, and the siltation under strong dynamic is larger than that under weak dynamic condition. The seasonal variation of the beach profile to the east of the Lianlidao-Dongcun estuary is smaller than that to the west, and the shape of the beach berm top shows obvious a concave feature in the summer. The variation of grain size of surface sediments also shows the difference between the east and the west. From autumn to winter, the grain size of surface sediments on the west side becomes coarser and the sorting becomes worse. On the east side, however, the sediments become finer with almost unchanged sorting. From winter to spring, the grain size of beach surface sediments becomes finer in grain size and better in sorting. and the variation trend in summer is similar to that in winter, although the variation range is different. Coastal engineering construction such as artificial islands and ports are the main factors leading to the difference of beach profile shape and grain size of surface sediments from east to west, and waves and typhoon events are the main dynamic factors that control the seasonal evolution of sandy beaches. Tidal action, tourism development and other human activities will also have a certain impact onto beach evolution.
-
Key words:
- beach /
- seasonal evolution /
- controlling factors /
- Shandong Peninsula
-
-
表 1 研究区海滩滩肩表层沉积物取样起止点坐标
Table 1. Coordinates of starting and ending points for surface sediments sampling on beach berms in the study area
起点 终点 纬度 经度 纬度 经度 T1 36°41′39.33″N 121°12′55.47″E 36°41′36.05″N 121°12′56.07″E T2 36°41′16.52″N 121°11′38.61″E 36°41′14.79″N 121°11′39.75″E T3 36°40′47.13″N 121°10′41.74″E 36°40′45.61″N 121°10′42.83″E T4 36°40′16.59″N 121°09′23.52″E 36°40′15.24″N 121°09′24.40″E T5 36°39′09.94″N 121°07′24.05″E 36°39′06.58″N 121°07′26.55″E T6 36°38′14.81″N 121°06′18.86″E 36°38′10.93″N 121°06′22.96″E 
下载: 导出CSV
表 2 研究区海滩滩肩表层沉积物分选等级季节变化
Table 2. Seasonal variation of sorting coefficient of berm surface sediments in the study area
T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 秋 较好 好 中等 较好 较好 中等 冬 中等 中等 中等 较好 较好 较好 春 较好 较好 较好 较好 较好 较差 夏 较差 中等 较差 较好 好 较好
下载: 导出CSV
表 3 研究区海滩滩面表层沉积物分选系数季节变化
Table 3. Seasonal variation of sorting coefficient of beach surface sediments in the study area
T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 秋 较好 中等 较差 较好 中等 中等 冬 较差 中等 较差 中等 较好 好 春 较好 较差 中等 较好 较好 较好 夏 好 较好 好 好 较好 较好
下载: 导出CSV
表 4 2018年秋季至2019年冬季研究区波浪和风场变化
Table 4. Wave and wind field changes in the study area from autumn 2018 to winter 2019
2018年秋季 2018年冬季 2019年春季 2019年夏季 有效波高/m 0.72 0.93 0.75 0.74 平均波向 NNE NW SSW SSE 平均风速/(m/s) 1.57 2.82 1.30 2.48 风向 NNW NNW SSW S
下载: 导出CSV
表 5 研究区2018年秋季至2019年冬季浪潮作用指数计算结果
Table 5. Calculation results of wave action index from autumn 2018 to winter 2019 in the study area
2018年秋季 2018年冬季 2019年春季 2019年夏季 H1/10/m 0.92 1.19 0.96 0.95 MHW/m 1.18 0.92 1.07 1.32 MLW/m –1.08 –1.31 –1.16 –0.91 
/m2.27 2.21 2.21 2.18 K 1.02 1.34 1.07 1.07
下载: 导出CSV
-
[1] 李广雪, 丁咚, 曹立华, 等. 山东半岛滨海沙滩现状与评价[M]. 北京: 海洋出版社, 2015
LI Guangxue, DING Dong, CAO Lihua, et al. Present Situation and Evaluation of Coastal Beach in Shandong Peninsula[M]. Beijing: Ocean Press, 2015.
[2] 季小梅, 张永战, 朱大奎. 人工海滩研究进展[J]. 海洋地质动态, 2006, 22(7):21-25 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-2722.2006.07.005
JI Xiaomei, ZHANG Yongzhan, ZHU Dakui. Research development of artificial beach [J]. Marine Geology Letters, 2006, 22(7): 21-25. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-2722.2006.07.005
[3] 高志强, 刘向阳, 宁吉才, 等. 基于遥感的近30a中国海岸线和围填海面积变化及成因分析[J]. 农业工程学报, 2014, 30(12):140-147 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-6819.2014.12.017
GAO Zhiqiang, LIU Xiangyang, NING Jicai, et al. Analysis on changes in coastline and reclamation area and its causes based on 30-year satellite data in China [J]. Transactions of the Chinese Society of Agricultural Engineering, 2014, 30(12): 140-147. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-6819.2014.12.017
[4] 孙伟富, 马毅, 张杰, 等. 不同类型海岸线遥感解译标志建立和提取方法研究[J]. 测绘通报, 2011(3):41-44
SUN Weifu, MA Yi, ZHANG Jie, et al. Study of remote sensing interpretation keys and extraction technique of different types of shoreline [J]. Bulletin of Surveying and Mapping, 2011(3): 41-44.
[5] 顾振华, 张弛, 郑金海. 波浪入射条件对双沙坝海岸演变的影响[J]. 泥沙研究, 2014(6):68-72
GU Zhenhua, ZHANG Chi, ZHENG Jinhai. Influence of incident wave condition on evolution of nearshore double sandbar system [J]. Journal of Sediment Research, 2014(6): 68-72.
[6] 刘兴慧. 山东统计年鉴[M]. 北京: 中国统计出版社, 2012
LIU Xinghui.Shandong Statistical Yearbook[M]. Beijing: China Statistics Publishing House, 2012.
[7] Aiello A, Canora F, Pasquariello G, et al. Shoreline variations and coastal dynamics: A space-time data analysis of the Jonian littoral, Italy [J]. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 2013, 129: 124-135. doi: 10.1016/j.ecss.2013.06.012
[8] Fenneman N M. Development of the profile of equilibrium of subaqueous shore terrace [J]. Le Poumon Et Le Coeur, 1977, 33(6): 397-401.
[9] Davis R A, Hayes M O. What is a wave-dominated coast? [J]. Marine Geology, 1984, 60(1-4): 313-329. doi: 10.1016/0025-3227(84)90155-5
[10] Hayes M O. Barrier island morphology as a function of tidal and wave regime[M]//Leatherman S P. Barrier Islands from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico. New York: Academic Press, 1979: 1-27.
[11] Gómez-Pujol L, Orfila A, Á lvarez-Ellacuría A, et al. Controls on sediment dynamics and medium-term morphological change in a barred microtidal beach (Cala Millor, Mallorca, Western Mediterranean) [J]. Geomorphology, 2011, 132(3-4): 87-98. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.04.026
[12] Günaydı n K, Kabdaş lı M S. Characteristics of coastal erosion geometry under regular and irregular waves [J]. Ocean Engineering, 2003, 30(13): 1579-1593. doi: 10.1016/S0029-8018(03)00011-8
[13] Haerens P, Bolle A, Trouw K, et al. Definition of storm thresholds for significant morphological change of the sandy beaches along the Belgian coastline [J]. Geomorphology, 2012, 143-144: 104-117. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.09.015
[14] Esteves L S, Brown J M, Williams J J, et al. Quantifying thresholds for significant dune erosion along the Sefton Coast, Northwest England [J]. Geomorphology, 2012, 143-144: 52-61. doi: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2011.02.029
[15] 王文海. 我国海岸侵蚀原因及其对策[J]. 海洋开发, 1987(1):8-12
WANG Wenhai. Causes and countermeasures of coastal erosion in China [J]. Ocean Development and Management, 1987(1): 8-12.
[16] 夏东兴, 王文海, 武桂秋, 等. 中国海岸侵蚀述要[J]. 地理学报, 1993, 48(5):468-476 doi: 10.3321/j.issn:0375-5444.1993.05.010
XIA Dongxing, WANG Wenhai, WU Guiqiu, et al. Coastal erosion in China [J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 1993, 48(5): 468-476. doi: 10.3321/j.issn:0375-5444.1993.05.010
[17] 李震, 雷怀彦. 中国砂质海岸分布特征与存在问题[J]. 海洋地质动态, 2006, 22(6):1-4 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-2722.2006.06.001
LI Zhen, LEI Huaiyan. Distribution and existing problems of sandy coast in China [J]. Marine Geology Letters, 2006, 22(6): 1-4. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-2722.2006.06.001
[18] 季子修. 中国海岸侵蚀特点及侵蚀加剧原因分析[J]. 自然灾害学报, 1996(2):69-79
JI Zixiu. The characteristics of coastal erosion and cause of erosion [J]. Journal of Natural Disasters, 1996(2): 69-79.
[19] 于吉涛, 陈子燊. 砂质海岸侵蚀研究进展[J]. 热带地理, 2009, 29(2):112-118 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-5221.2009.02.002
YU Jitao, CHEN Zishen. Study progress of sandy coastal erosion [J]. Tropical Geography, 2009, 29(2): 112-118. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-5221.2009.02.002
[20] 吉学宽, 林振良, 闫有喜, 等. 海岸侵蚀、防护与修复研究综述[J]. 广西科学, 2019, 26(6):604-613
JI Xuekuan, LIN Zhenliang, YAN Youxi, et al. Review on the research of coastal erosion, protection and restoration [J]. Guangxi Sciences, 2019, 26(6): 604-613.
[21] 庄振业, 陈卫民, 许卫东, 等. 山东半岛若干平直砂岸近期强烈蚀退及其后果[J]. 青岛海洋大学学报, 1989, 19(1):90-98
ZHUANG Zhenye, CHEN Weimin, XU Weidong, et al. Retrogression of straight sandy beaches in the Shandong Peninsula and its results [J]. Journal of Ocean University of Qingdao, 1989, 19(1): 90-98.
[22] 常瑞芳, 庄振业, 吴建政. 山东半岛西北海岸的蚀退与防护[J]. 青岛海洋大学学报, 1993, 23(3):60-68
CHANG Ruifang, ZHUANG Zhenye, WU Jianzheng. Retrogression and protection of the north-west coast of the Shandong Peninsula [J]. Journal of Ocean University of Qingdao, 1993, 23(3): 60-68.
[23] 栾天. 山东半岛北岸砂质海岸现状及演化分析[D]. 中国海洋大学硕士学位论文, 2011
LUAN Tian.Current situation and analysis of the sandy coast in the north of Shangdong Peninsula[D]. Master Dissertation of Ocean University of China, 2011.
[24] 李兵, 庄振业, 曹立华, 等. 山东省砂质海岸侵蚀与保护对策[J]. 海洋地质前沿, 2013, 29(5):47-55
LI Bing, ZHUANG Zhenye, CAO Lihua, et al. Countermeasures against coastal erosion for protection of the sandy coast in Shandong province [J]. Marine Geology Frontiers, 2013, 29(5): 47-55.
[25] 庄振业, 印萍, 吴建政, 等. 鲁南沙质海岸的侵蚀量及其影响因素[J]. 海洋地质与第四纪地质, 2000, 20(3):15-21
ZHUANG Zhenye, YIN Ping, WU Jianzheng, et al. Coastal erosion and its influence on southern Shandong sandy coast [J]. Marine Geology & Quaternary Geology, 2000, 20(3): 15-21.
[26] 李广雪, 宫立新, 杨继超, 等. 山东滨海沙滩侵蚀状态与保护对策[J]. 海洋地质与第四纪地质, 2013, 33(5):35-46
LI Guangxue, GONG Lixin, YANG Jichao, et al. Beach erosion along the coast of Shandong province and protection countermeasures [J]. Marine Geology & Quaternary Geology, 2013, 33(5): 35-46.
[27] 周良勇, 薛春汀, 刘健, 等. 山东半岛东、北部海滩动力地貌特征及影响因素[J]. 海洋科学进展, 2013, 31(1):83-94 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-6647.2013.01.010
ZHOU Liangyong, XUE Chunting, LIU Jian, et al. Beach morphodynamics and impact factors on the beaches in the northern and eastern of Shandong Peninsula [J]. Advances in Marine Science, 2013, 31(1): 83-94. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-6647.2013.01.010
[28] 岳保静, 廖晶, 高茂生, 等. 山东半岛砂质海滩动力地貌演化特征[J]. 海洋科学, 2017, 41(4):118-127 doi: 10.11759/hykx20161107001
YUE Baojing, LIAO Jing, GAO Maosheng, et al. Evolutionary features of morphodynamics of sandy beaches on the Shandong Peninsula [J]. Marine Sciences, 2017, 41(4): 118-127. doi: 10.11759/hykx20161107001
[29] 王楠, 李广雪, 张斌, 等. 山东荣成靖海卫海滩侵蚀研究与防护建议[J]. 中国海洋大学学报, 2012, 42(12):83-90
WANG Nan, LI Guangxue, ZHANG Bin, et al. Beach erosion research in Jinghaiwei, Rongcheng, Shandong [J]. Periodical of Ocean University of China, 2012, 42(12): 83-90.
[30] 杨继超, 李广雪, 宫立新, 等. 山东威海滨海沙滩侵蚀现状和原因分析[J]. 中国海洋大学学报, 2012, 42(12):97-106
YANG Jichao, LI Guangxue, GONG Lixin, et al. Status and causes of beach erosion in Weihai, Shandong Province [J]. Periodical of Ocean University of China, 2012, 42(12): 97-106.
[31] 刘成, 胡日军, 朱龙海, 等. Dean模型在山东半岛西北岸滩动力地貌研究的应用[J]. 海洋科学进展, 2020, 38(2):348-358 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-6647.2020.02.014
LIU Cheng, HU Rijun, ZHU Longhai, et al. The application of dean equilibrium profile model in the study on dynamic geomorphology of the northwest shoal of Shandong Peninsula [J]. Advances in Marine Science, 2020, 38(2): 348-358. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1671-6647.2020.02.014
[32] 张泽华, 吴建政, 朱龙海, 等. 海阳港东港区建设对砂质海岸冲淤影响[J]. 海洋地质前沿, 2012, 28(8):49-55
ZHANG Zehua, WU Jianzheng, ZHU Longhai, et al. Impacts of the construction of the east wing of Haiyang harbor on the erosion and deposition regime in the sandy coast [J]. Marine Geology Frontiers, 2012, 28(8): 49-55.
[33] 岳娜娜, 吴建政, 朱龙海, 等. 离岸人工岛对砂质海岸的影响[J]. 海洋地质动态, 2008, 24(4):18-22 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-2722.2008.04.004
YUE Nana, WU Jianzheng, ZHU Longhai, et al. Influence of offshore artificial island on sandy coast [J]. Marine Geology Letters, 2008, 24(4): 18-22. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-2722.2008.04.004
[34] 任智会, 胡日军, 张连杰, 等. 海阳砂质海岸岸滩演化[J]. 海洋地质前沿, 2016, 32(11):18-25
REN Zhihui, HU Rijun, ZHANG Lianjie, et al. Evolution of the sandy beach in Haiyang [J]. Marine Geology Frontiers, 2016, 32(11): 18-25.
[35] 吴园园, 娄安刚, 张坤, 等. 海阳中心渔港建设对附近海域冲淤的数值模拟预测[J]. 海岸工程, 2014, 33(1):1-11 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-3682.2014.01.001
WU Yuanyuan, LOU Angang, ZHANG Kun, et al. Numerical simulation and prediction of erosion-deposition caused by the construction of the Haiyang central fishing harbor [J]. Coastal Engineering, 2014, 33(1): 1-11. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-3682.2014.01.001
[36] 汪守东, 徐洪磊. 烟台港海阳港区沙滩冲淤稳定性数值模拟分析[J]. 水运工程, 2010(7):11-17 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-4972.2010.07.003
WANG Shoudong, XU Honglei. Numerical study on scouring and silting stability of beach in Haiyang harbor area of Yantai port [J]. Port & Waterway Engineering, 2010(7): 11-17. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1002-4972.2010.07.003
[37] 高伟, 李萍, 高珊, 等. 台风"利奇马"对山东省海阳市海滩演化过程的影响[J]. 海洋学报, 2020, 42(11):88-99
GAO Wei, LI Ping, GAO Shan, et al. Response process of the Haiyang Beach evolution to Typhoon Lekima in Shandong province [J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2020, 42(11): 88-99.
[38] 蔡锋, 苏贤泽, 曹惠美, 等. 华南砂质海滩的动力地貌分析[J]. 海洋学报, 2005, 27(2):106-114
CAI Feng, SU Xianze, CAO Huimei, et al. Analysis on morphodynamics of sandy beaches in South China [J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 2005, 27(2): 106-114.
[39] 孙振生, 许云涛. 海阳市主要农业气象灾害及防灾减灾措施[J]. 现代农业科技, 2015(22):215, 218
SUN Zhensheng, XU Yuntao. Main agrometeorological disasters and disaster prevention and mitigation measures in Haiyang city [J]. Modern Agricultural Science and Technology, 2015(22): 215, 218.
[40] 李繁华, 刘爱菊, 赵松鹤, 等. 山东近海水文状况[M]. 济南: 山东省地图出版社, 1989
LI Fanhua, LIU Aiju, ZHAO Songhe, et al.Shandong Offshore Hydrological Status[M]. Ji’nan: Shandong Map Publishing House, 1989.
[41] 张泽华. 海阳港建设对砂质海岸影响的研究[D]. 中国海洋大学硕士学位论文, 2012
ZHANG Zehua.Study on impacts of the Haiyang harbor's construction on the sandy coast[D]. Master Dissertation of Ocean University of China, 2012.
[42] 王强. 基于遥感反演的海阳离岸海域悬浮泥沙时空分布特征研究[D]. 中国科学院大学(中国科学院海洋研究所)硕士学位论文, 2019
WANG Qiang.Spatial and temporal distribution of suspended sediment in offshore region of Haiyang city by remote sensing[D]. Master Dissertation of University of Chinese Academy of Sciences (Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences), 2019.
[43] 岳保静, 高茂生, 邵家旺, 等. 河北省京唐港附近沙坝—潟湖海岸地貌演化特征[J]. 海洋地质前沿, 2018, 34(9):10-16
YUE Baojing, GAO Maosheng, SHAO Jiawang, et al. Geomorphological evolution of the barrier-lagoon system near the Jingtang port, Hebei province [J]. Marine Geology Frontiers, 2018, 34(9): 10-16.
[44] 黄广, 陈沈良, 胡静. 南汇东滩沉积物粒度特征及其与水动力的关系[J]. 海洋湖沼通报, 2008(1):32-38 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1003-6482.2008.01.005
HUANG Guang, CHEN Shenliang, HU Jing. Sediment characteristics and its relationship to hydrodynamic on Nanhui subfluvial flat [J]. Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology, 2008(1): 32-38. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1003-6482.2008.01.005
[45] 王永红, 孙静, 庄振业. 青岛旅游海滩沉积物粒度的季节性变化特征和输运[J]. 中国海洋大学学报, 2012, 42(12):70-76
WANG Yonghong, SUN Jing, ZHUANG Zhenye. Seasonal variations on grain size of the sediments and their transport in tourism beach of Qingdao [J]. Periodical of Ocean University of China, 2012, 42(12): 70-76.
[46] 郑承忠, 翁宇斌, 杨顺良. 厦门岛东南岸沙滩近期剖面变化研究[J]. 热带海洋学报, 2005, 24(4):73-80 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-5470.2005.04.011
ZHENG Chengzhong, WENG Yubin, YANG Shunliang. A study on recent changes of beach profiles along southeast shore of Xiamen Island, Fujian province, China [J]. Journal of Tropical Oceanography, 2005, 24(4): 73-80. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1009-5470.2005.04.011
[47] US Army Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center. Shore Protection Manual[M]. Washington, DC: Department of the Army, Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, 1984.
[48] Short A D. Australian beach system: nature and distribution [J]. Journal of Coastal Research, 2006, 22(1): 11-27.
[49] 李孟国, 郑敬云. 中国海域潮汐预报软件Chinatide的应用[J]. 水道港口, 2007, 28(1):65-68 doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1005-8443.2007.01.015
LI Mengguo, ZHENG Jingyun. Introduction to Chinatide software for tide prediction in China seas [J]. Journal of Waterway and Harbor, 2007, 28(1): 65-68. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1005-8443.2007.01.015
-
图(7)
表(5)
计量
- 文章访问数: 2321
- PDF下载数: 40
- 施引文献: 0