The study of the difference of beach response under sediment supply in southeast of Xiamen Island
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摘要:
以厦门岛东南部海滩为例，基于10条剖面连续6年野外实测地形数据，利用经验正交函数分析方法（EOF）提取海滩变化的主要模态，分析海滩中长期蚀淤变化特征及其控制因素。EOF提取方差总占比超过90%的前三种模态反映研究区海滩时空演变特征：沙源条件对海滩蚀淤过程起主导作用为第一模态，受上游沙源条件及沿岸输沙方向影响，海滩剖面在纵向上存在差异性，研究区北侧剖面持续淤积，南侧剖面则呈现侵蚀状态；第二模态为波浪季节性变化导致海滩滩肩在冬季变窄和夏季变宽之间旋回；人类活动影响滩面形态变化为第三模态，人类活动对岸滩形态及其变化产生一定影响，其中人工构筑物对研究区海滩影响较大。从多年海滩变化来看，沙源条件控制海滩响应差异性，沉积物供给充足的海滩形态变化幅度及系统可调节范围比沉积物匮乏海滩大，泥沙供给贫乏的海滩地形变化幅度虽小，其系统缓冲能力及自适应能力却弱。
Abstract:The morphological evolution of a beach in the southeastern part of Xiamen Island, Fujian, China was analyzed as an example to show the responses of the beach to different sediment supplies. Based on the topographic data from 10 beach profiles monitored for six consecutive years, the method of Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis was applied to help identify the morphological evolution and the associated driving factors. More than 90% of the total variance of the first three empirical orthogonal functions was used to reflect the basic evolution of the beach. The first mode represents the remarkable erosion or deposition trend of beach profiles on a long time scale, indicating that sediment source plays a dominate role in long-term beach evolution. Beach profiles in the northern part of the study area show continuous seaward accretion, while those in the southern part show retreat. The second mode represents the seasonal transition in beach berm between summer and winter, which is associated with the seasonal variation in wave climate. The third mode represents the morphological changes of intertidal zone, which indicates the impacts of human activities, especially artificial structures along the coast. This study highlights the dominant role of sediment source in medium- to long-term morphological evolution of beaches. Beaches with sufficient sediment supply show a larger range of morphological adjustment and stronger adaptability than those with limited sediment supply.
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表 1 剖面基本信息
Table 1. Basic information of the beach profiles
剖面名称 桩点经纬度 方位角 P1
P2
P3
P4
P5
P6
P7
P8
P9
P1024°27′21.31″N、 118°10′15.16″E
24°27′17.43″N、 118°10′10.03″E
24°27′12.87″N、 118°10′03.71″E
24°27′08.12″N、 118°09′57.30″E
24°27′04.71″N、 118°09′55.42″E
24°26′56.35″N、 118°09′43.21″E
24°26′45.10″N、 118°09′25.43″E
24°26′32.16″N、 118°09′07.47″E
24°26′22.08″N、 118°08′52.25″E
24°26′04.91″N、 118°08′37.30″E139°00′
139°11′
139°09′
139°09′
139°08′
139°43′
140°16′
146°31′
134°34′
123°10′
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表 2 各剖面主要模态特征值及所占方差结果
Table 2. Beach profile variation explained by modes
区域 剖面 特征值 所占方差/% 累计方差/% 第一模态 第二模态 第三模态 第一模态 第二模态 第三模态 淤积区域 P1 13.03 2.12 – 84 14 – 98 P2 13.40 0.55 – 94 4 – 98 P3 4.82 0.34 – 87 6 – 93 P4 11.17 1.03 – 88 8 – 96 P5 0.55 0.39 0.05 51 36 5 92 侵蚀区域 P6 3.58 0.20 – 88 5 – 93 P7 0.66 0.27 0.10 55 22 18 95 P8 1.56 0.30 0.18 73 14 8 95 P9 3.70 1.46 0.33 64 25 6 95 P10 0.84 0.60 0.10 51 37 6 94
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